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Showing posts with label Restaurant. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Restaurant. Show all posts

L'Alexandra in the 14th: A very nice neighborhood restaurant.

7:55 PM Posted by Rhoda , ,

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5.4 L'Alexandra, 6, rue Pernety in the 14th, 01.83.96.25.98, (Metro: duh Pernety) closed Sunday and Monday, has been open 3 years but was not on my radar screen until a friend up their street brought it to my attention.  By the time Colette and I walked in, our dining guest was already in bilingual discussion with the woman whom I presume is/was the chef/owner.  


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Our friend and I started off with the braised but quite al dente green asparagus on the bed of terrific macerated gesiers.  With them we had a bottle of 2013 Silver Medal Cotes du Rhone by Corinne Depeyre which the two ladies were most enthusiastic about my mentioning.


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Then, for mains, Colette had a duck breast with mashies, our friend had the duck leg cooked as if for a  tajine with new potatoes and I had many thin lamb chops - which I had asked about, specifically if they were lamb not mutton, having been fooled before, and was assured that lamb meant lamb and they would be served "blue" as desired - but the slices were so thin they really couldn't be cooked "blue" and they did indeed have that soupçon of mutton taste.


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For desserts our friend had a tarte tatin/creme brulee mix with caramel sauce, Colette had rice pudding and I had something I'd never heard of before - a cafe affogato (a cup of hot coffee into which a scoop of vanilla ice cream has been placed) - very nice.


Our bill, with a bottle and a half of wine, no bottled water, so-so bread and 2 more coffees, was 112 E, thus 76 E a couple.


Go?  As I say, it's a nice, quiet (68.9 dB), neighborhood place that I can understand our friends' devotion to.



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Club Gascon – A Classic French Restaurant in Clerkenwell

1:17 PM Posted by Rhoda , , , ,

From the moment I entered Club Gascon, I was totally impressed by this generous dose of Frenchness in Clerkenwell, where they wear their patriotism and passion so proudly.

Club Gascon is a restaurant where detail and timing is key and, accordingly, the service, food, wines and atmosphere create a fantastic experience.

Club Gascon Restaurant exterior

There are a few things which you could pick fault with – I don’t love the layout of the narrow dining room, and on the evening we visited there was a very large group which dominated it; and as much as I am a Francophile there were moments when my GCSE French failed me and I couldn’t quite decipher the accents of the staff.

Club Gascon Restaurant interiors

But it didn’t really matter because anything they talked about, served us, and topped up at Club Gascon was pretty much perfect.

The Menu changes every 8-12 weeks and I’d always suggest you go for Le Marché which is a 6 course tasting menu drawing inspiration from the à la carte ‘topics’: Le Route du Sel; Le Potager; Le Canard; L’Oceane and Les Paturages.

The food at Club Gascon Restaurant

This is a snip at a two-course lunch option for £25, and £60 for the 6 course menu at dinner. A menu this confident, balanced and understated can only have come from a Chef with great skill and experience and having tasted it, I can confirm eating Pascal Aussignac’s food is a pleasure from start to finish.

Hailing from the South West of France, the produce that surrounded him in his early years is treated with great skill and care on the menu here and Fois Gras, Duck, and fine Charcuterie all get star treatment. To this day all the ingredients he cooks with are sourced from small artisan producers in the South West of France.

The food at Club Gascon Restaurant

There are some gutsy flavours on show here but my highlights demonstrated the lightest of touches including the lightest courgette flower I’ve ever tried and a pigeon dish that recalibrated my understanding of its delicate taste and texture.

The wine list generously draws from, no surprises, the South West, Languedoc, Roussillon and Bordeaux – absolutely no New World wine to be found here and it really works to have such a localised list which matches the terroirs of the menu.

It is worth noting too that the restaurant is part of a successful group of London restaurants, including Cigalon on Chancery Lane, all sharing a love of genuine and authentic French ingredients and styles.

We’re guilty of chasing the next new restaurant on London’s dining scene but Club Gascon is a classic, and one we need to treasure.

If you liked this review of Club Gascon, sign up to The Bon Vivant Journal Below.



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Blanchette Soho: Restaurant Review

2:19 PM Posted by Rhoda , ,

Blanchette has an understated entrance on D’Arblay Street in Soho. Owned by French brothers Yannis and Maxim Alary and supported by the Salt Yard Group, Blanchette has a similar feel to some of their restaurants; humble sharing food in a rustic setting.

The bar area at Blanchette is surrounded by a wall and window of bar stools, and the décor is, much like the food, classic French Bistro with the occasional modern twist: exposed bricks and mismatched furniture, complemented by warm, low lighting.

Blanchette Restaurant in Soho

The menu is broken up into Snacks, Charcuterie, Cheese and a selection of small ‘tapas’ plates under the headings of Meat, Fish and Vegetable.

We started with a Charcuterie board consisting of Jambon Sec de Montagne (£4.00) and Noix D’épaule (£4.00) with freshly baked bread. Both meats were delicious and arrived as a generous serving enough for 2-3 people.

The Charcuterie Board at Blanchette Soho

For mains we opted for a combination of Fish, Meat and Vegetable (waiting staff advise 2-3 plates per person for the table). Warm Confit of Salmon with Duck, Puy lentils and Herbs (£6.75) was a delicately flavoured and wholesome dish.

Ox Cheeks Bourguignon with Ventreche (£8.00) is served in an individual casserole dish and was the highlight of our dinner.

Three extremely tender pieces of meat sat in a dark, rich sauce; a classic French dish done very well, accompanied perfectly by Cote du Rhone Domaine la Mirandol (£20.00 for a Carafe).

Black Pudding, Char-grilled Pork Belly with spiced Quince and Parsnip purée (£6.75) isn’t as rich as it sounds – the dish was pleasantly balanced thanks to the sweetness of the purée.

Blanchette Soho

Blanchette Soho serves comforting, good quality food but the service still needs some work. While they were very friendly, service was a little disorganised, with some timing issues.

Do note that space is short, and the dishes arrive staggered, so eat each plate as it arrives to avoid over-crowding on the table. A private dining room is also available seating 14 to 16 guests.

If you liked this review of Blanchette Soho, read some of our other recent restaurants reviews including Holborn Dining Room and Chiltern Firehouse. Sign up to the Bon Vivant Journal below:

Disclaimer: We were invited to review Blanchette but our thoughts will always be our own and our reviews are our genuine impression of the restaurant. Click here to view our editorial policy.



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Off The Menu: Tessa Opens, a Restaurant With a ‘Mostly Mediterranean’ Approach

3:42 PM Posted by Rhoda , , , , ,

Headliner

TESSA

Well-designed, chef-driven restaurants are multiplying on the West Side north of Lincoln Center, making places like Dovetail and Ouest less of an exception. Tessa offers a menu by the executive chef Cedric Tovar that may make it a destination. Consider grilled rouget, razor clam escabeche, venison carpaccio, cavatelli with rabbit and ramps, duck breast sharing the plate with duck lasagna, and a côte de boeuf for two. “My approach is mostly Mediterranean,” Mr. Tovar said. And there are enough herbs, olives and sauces like romesco to prove it. The brick-walled space is defined by the clever use of iron security gate material throughout, including on the ceiling. There is a ground-level bar area and a 75-seat dining room up a few steps. (Opens Thursday): 349 Amsterdam Avenue (77th Street), 212-390-1974, tessanyc.com.

Opening

ALFREDO 100 Alfredo di Lelio started dishing his namesake fettuccine in Rome 100 years ago. A New York branch of the restaurant, owned by Russell Bellanca, has moved from Rockefeller Center to the former Bice space and added “100” to the name. The fairly classic Italian menu has riffs on fettuccine Alfredo in a number of dishes, including arancini. Some of the walls are decorated with murals by Al Hirschfeld: 7 East 54th Street, 212-688-1999, alfredo100.com.

CHALK POINT KITCHEN The restaurateur Matt Levine, who owned Sons of Essex, had this place done farmhouse-style with an open kitchen and potted herbs. The chef Joe Isidori is preparing seasonal dishes relying on the same network of Long Island farmers and fishermen he turned to when he was at South Fork Kitchen in Bridgehampton, N.Y. The restaurant’s name refers to a part of Lower Manhattan that the Dutch called Chalk Point. There is also a clubby lower-level piano lounge, the Handy Liquor Bar. (Wednesday): 527 Broome Street (Thompson Street), 212-390-0327, facebook.com/ChalkPointNYC.

DARUMA-YA A Japanese-Italian mash-up called Greenwich Grill has given way to an all-Japanese place, retaining the lower-level sushi bar but adding an izakaya dining room with small plates and several soba specialties created by Shuichi Kotani, the chef who makes his own noodles. (Monday): 428 Greenwich Street (Laight Street), 212-274-0428, darumaya-nyc.com.

PAT LAFRIEDA’S SIGNATURE MEATBALL SLIDERS Nothing could be more fitting than sliders at the ballpark. You get three topped with whipped ricotta for $12: Citi Field, field level at Section 139, no phone, mets.com.

TAVERN ON THE GREEN The Central Park restaurant, which has been undergoing renovations the last two years, will open its doors April 24 and is accepting dinner reservations. It will have three dining rooms with seating for 400: the Bar Room and lounge, the Central Park Room in part of the area that was once the Crystal Room, and the South Wing, all with the same à la carte menu. The lounge will be first come first served: 67th Street and Central Park West, 212-877-8684, tavernonthegreen.com.

Looking Ahead

KINGSLEY The chef Roxanne Spruance plans to open this restaurant in the fall, and is serving preview dinners on Mondays in April at Le Restaurant in All Good Things, $75 for six courses: 102 Franklin Street (Church Street), allgoodthingsny.com.

Chefs on the Move

AARON BLUDORN, the chef de cuisine at Cafe Boulud, will become the executive chef in June, replacing Gavin Kaysen, who is moving to Minneapolis to open Merchant, his own restaurant.

SYLVAIN DELPIQUE of Lyon, France, who has been at L’Escale in Greenwich, Conn., is the new chef at “21” Club.

RON WINGWEE HSU, who was at Le Bernardin for eight years, is the new chef at Le Colonial in Midtown, where he is introducing dishes like pho with foie gras.

WAYNE NISH, who was to be the chef at Pavilion in Union Square Park, opening in June, has resigned from the project.

HIROKI ODO, who worked in Kyoto and Tokyo, was promoted to executive chef at Kajitsu.

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Restaurant Takeaway: Brooklyn Provides the Secret to Nashville-Style Hot Chicken

Photo
Peaches HotHouse extra hot chicken. Credit Evan Sung for The New York Times

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At Peaches HotHouse in Brooklyn, a restaurant that specializes in notoriously spicy Nashville-style fried chicken, they are not exaggerating when they say the chicken is hot.

And when they say extra hot — well, you’ve been warned. Have a handkerchief and an ice-cold beer ready, then pick up a drumstick and take a bite.

At first all is well as you crunch through the fried skin; it is oily, brittle and crisp. Next, you sense sweetness from a touch of sugar in the spice mix. For a moment, you’re feeling cocky.

But then it comes: the chile onslaught. A pungent, fiery, screaming blast of heat that will make you cry with agony and bliss. Drink some beer. Wipe your nose. And start all over again.

When the owners, Ben Grossman and Craig Samuel, along with their chef, Rodney Frazer, set out to make their own version of the chicken inspired by classic Nashville renditions, they knew regular cayenne alone wouldn’t be incendiary enough. So they added a dose of the hottest chiles in the world, ghost chiles, which can reach 1,000,000 on the Scoville scale, which rates the heat of peppers. (Compare that with a measly 50,000 for cayenne.)

It took much trial and error to come up with this chile mix, which is spiked with paprika, black pepper and plenty of dried garlic and onion. It makes their hot chicken particularly well seasoned as well as spicy.

In the tradition of the hot-chicken houses in Nashville, the Peaches HotHouse team has been protective of the recipe. It has never before been given it out in the four years the restaurant has been open, despite what the owners say have been many requests. You see it here first.

At home, you can adjust the heat by dialing back the chile powder. Or add more. If you dare.

Recipe: Peaches HotHouse Extra Hot Chicken

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