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Showing posts with label Times. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Times. Show all posts

Les Enfants Rouges; The curse of the New York Times has not yet fallen on Dai and Tomoko Shinozuka.

4:18 PM Posted by Rhoda , , , , , ,

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When the New York Times published that dreadful article on how Paris cuisine was saved by non-French chefs my heart seized.  Had the author ever lived here?, who was he?, and why was he making sure none of us who patronize places like Les Enfants Rouges or Spring or those of the talented James Henry, would be able to ever get in to any of them again?  I guess you gotta sell newspapers.  But 5 of us who have loved Les Enfants Rouges since it turned over a few months ago, reserved and went and except for two tables, it seems to be yet unsullied by fellow pesky Yankees or their brethern.


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So whipping thru it:
- An amuse bouche of a soup of mushrooms of Paris with cream of garlic
- Then starters
- Some asparagus with herbed fromage blanc
- Mackerel with acidulated raw veggies (pretty damn top-top)
- A soup of green asparagus with tapioca and nuts
- Mains of
- Farm chicken with morilles
- Scallops with endives and bacon
- A brandade of haddock
- A pomme of foie gras with morilles in cream - YESSSSS.
- And desserts of
- Alpine strawberries with fromage blanc and
- Alpine strawberries with mascarpone.


Our bill, with some suppliments (for the foie gras, fair enough), one bottled water, two bottles of wines and 4 coffees, was 256 E, thus 102.66 E a couple.



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Dining & Wine - The New York Times

5:42 AM Posted by Rhoda ,
Daniele De Michele, center, a D.J. and performance artist who goes by the nom d’art D.J. Donpasta, interviewed Antonio Polverino, right, a retired construction worker, in Minori, Italy.
Gianni Cipriano for The New York Times

Daniele De Michele, center, a D.J. and performance artist who goes by the nom d’art D.J. Donpasta, interviewed Antonio Polverino, right, a retired construction worker, in Minori, Italy.


Daniele De Michele, a food activist, is touring Italy to collect working-class recipes and food lore.

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Fun Times with Farro: Cauliflower and Cara Cara Oranges, Smoked Trout and Parmesan

5:06 PM Posted by Rhoda , , , , , ,

Fun Times with Farro: Cauliflower and Cara Cara Oranges, Smoked Trout and Parmesan

March 24, 2014 |By | COMMENTS

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They say you’ve gotta know the rules before you break the rules and I think that’s true of cooking as much as it’s true of art or writing or any other discipline. Before you make deconstructed spaghetti and meatballs with foam and fruit leather and dehydrated beef essence, you should probably learn how to make the straightforward version. (Plus: the straightforward version is usually better.) Let’s say you’re hankering to be creative, though, and you want to flex your artistic cooking muscles. Then my advice is to master the art of blank canvas foods; the kinds of foods you can dress up however you want once you get the basic idea down. For me, that blank canvas food used to be pasta; but lately, on a California summer-is-coming health kick, I’ve been toying around with farro.

Farro is pretty easy to cook. Just follow the package directions but, essentially, you boil water, season it with salt, drop in the farro and depending on what kind you buy (the one from Trader Joe’s cooks quickly, the one from Whole Foods doesn’t) you’ll have cooked farro in 20 to 30 minutes. Drain out the water and let the games begin.

My first bit of advice is to hit that hot, just-boiled farro with some fat and acid right away. In the case of my cauliflower and Cara Cara orange farro (which I made after a trip to the farmer’s market), I drizzled in olive oil and then squeezed the juice from cara cara oranges in and stirred everything around (navel oranges will work well too). As for the cauliflower, I “marinated” it by putting raw cauliflower florets in a dish with olive oil, more orange juice, and ground up coriander seeds. Then I tossed that with the farro along with segmented Cara Cara oranges and lots of chopped herbs (parsley and dill, I believe) and some chopped pickled onion:

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It was a bright, festive, healthy spring-time dish.

But my greater work came a week later when I spotted smoked trout at Trader Joe’s and I’d picked up asparagus at the farmer’s market. First, I roasted the asparagus in a 425 oven by putting it on a cookie sheet with olive oil, salt and pepper and cooking just until the asparagus had some color (about 10 minutes):

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As for the farro, I decided I was going to make a sort of smoked trout Caesar salad (something you can find in my cookbook) but in farro form. Hear me out. Here’s what I had on my cutting board:

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After cooking the farro, I treated it with olive oil and lemon juice and a spoonful of mustard, salt and pepper:

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Then I flaked in the smoked trout:

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Added the asparagus, cut into pieces, and lots of Parmesan:

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Hey, it may sound strange to you, but this was a totally successful, crowd-pleasing dinner (that crowd being me and Craig):

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Who knew farro was so versatile, such a prompt for creative cooking? I did and now you do too. What will you come up with? The sky’s the limit.

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Categories: Recipes, Salads



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