In Morocco, fish is fried, grilled or simmered, just as it is everywhere else, but there is this essential difference: The first step in nearly every Moroccan fish recipe requires the fish to be slathered, anointed or rubbed with a mixture of herbs, spices and olive oil.
Cilantro and garlic must be part of the mix, along with hot pepper and cumin. Some cooks are inclined to add paprika, and lots of cooks add tomato. Nearly everyone adds lemon juice or vinegar, but ingredient quantities are vague, varying with each cook’s personal whim.
The mixture is known as chermoula, or in some circles, Moroccan pesto. It’s a versatile, zesty condiment that is no trouble to make. I prefer to chop everything finely with a sharp knife, so there’s a little texture. A blender or food processor work well, too, though resulting in a smoother, greener version. Use a mortar and pestle for a small batch. Thin with more oil, or keep it on the thick side.
Now catch your fish (or your fish fillets), smear with chermoula and marinate for at least an hour. Then you can roast it on a bed of onions — an easy technique — or grill the fish and serve the onions alongside.
The onions in question are a kind of delicious confit, in which sliced onions are slowly stewed in butter until they are a sweet, melting mass stained yellow with turmeric. The seasoning is high, with cayenne and black pepper, bits of chopped preserved lemon and whole briny olives stirred through to add flavor and a little saltiness. You can make the onions a day in advance, or keep a supply on hand in the fridge. Good hot or cold, they have lots of uses.
While cooks on the East Coast are waiting for local vegetables to arrive, it’s good to remember that onions will happily stand in, and it’s nice to appreciate them in their own right. Fresh cilantro, wherever it comes from, brightens the dish and makes it springlike.
And if the fishing excursion doesn’t work out, just use chicken breasts or lamb chops and proceed with recipe.
Recipe: Moroccan Baked Fish With Onions
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