Monday-Tuesday in A Nous Paris, Jerome Berger reviewed and gave 4/5 dots to the previously mentioned Le Servan, mentioning the pork belly, seiche and grapefruit tart; while his colleague Philippe Toinard gave 3/5 to L’Initial, in the Sofitel Arc de Triomphe, 2 Ave Bertie Albrecht in the 8th, 01.53.89.50.53, closed weekends, mentioning the minestrone, quasi de veau and seductive desserts on 39 E lunch and 45 E dinner menus.
Tuesday in Le Fooding there was a review of Les Deserteurs (in the old Rino space), 46 rue Trousseau in the 11th, 01.48.06.95.85, closed Sundays, Mondays and Tuesday at lunch, run by at least one refugee from Les Recruteurs, thus the name, has menus at 28, 35 and45-60 E for items such as asparagus, fera from Lake Geneva and cheesecake.
Wednesday, in Figaroscope, Emmanuel Rubin reviewed his usual 5 places giving 2 lips to the previously mentioned Le Servan in the 11th where he enjoyed the pork belly, lieu jaune and strawberry/rhubarb tart. One lip apiece to went to the Comptoir Urbain in the 10th, L’Ardoise du XV in the 15th and the Grilled Cheese Factory in the 4th. The first place, the Villa Sophia in the 16th, was described as “incompetante et piteuse.”
The Dossier this week was by Colette Monsat, Alice Bosio and Anne-Charlotte De Langhe was on pizza calzones, rating them from 1-10 as follows:
Bistrot Napolitain
Amici Miei
La Bricola
Maria Luisa & Trattoria Pulcinella
Il Brigante
Alfredo Positano, Chez Bartolo & I Cugini
Pizzeria di Rebellato
And Emmanuel Rubin in the Hache Menu went to Zarafa in the newly reopened Vincennes Zoo.
Also on Wednesday in Paris Update, Heidi Ellison wrote about the Greek L’Oliver in the 3rd and Cuissons, 65, rue de Saintonge, also in the 3rd, 01.44.78.96.9275003 Paris. Métro: Filles de Calvaire. Tel.: 01 44 78 96 92. Open Monday-Saturday, noon-10:30pm. A la carte: around €20.La Table de Eugenie.
Thursday, in l’Express, Marianne Payot celebrated Le Cigale Recamier’s 10th Anniversary and Francois-Regis Gaudry called Hi Kai in the 11th his Resto du Jour.